There's certainly a lot of hijacking going on - clean/green/sustainable/organic being sold as luxury, as an element of the 'conspicuous consumption' lifestyle that contributes excessively to environmental destruction.
Parallel to that, there is all the gastro-porn: celebrity chefs, 'eating your way along the Silk Road', that sort of thing.
And they, in turn, feed the obesity epidemic.
I don't know where to start tackling the problem - maybe we have to start anywhere and everywhere, as we need to do in combatting global warming. For me, that means eating as fresh, as seasonally and as locally as I can, cutting back on meat (environmentally expensive as well as un-Buddhist), and making baby steps towards growing my own food in my spare time. It's all common sense but, as we know, common sense ain't all that common.